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#SuzyJewels – Place Vend?me: Jewellers Change Settings – For Customers And Gemstones

作者:Suzy Menkes 编辑:yijie.Zhang 时间:2019年9月07日
内容来源:VOGUE时尚网  图片来源:VOGUE国际网站:英国

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The heart of the Paris jewellery world beats for audacious new ways of making and marketing

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Ana Khouri's diamond and rare tourmaline paraiba "Phillipa" necklace

? Ana Khouri

“This is harmony,” the designer said of her high jewellery collection for both sexes. “The concept is about going back to nature, back to your essence and creating the pieces with one year to prepare,” she continued, as she showed her collection of pale pieces with bushy flowers and leaves as background decoration.

There was also the sense that the heavier, gender-free jewels were deliberately in a state of flux, with a ring not necessarily sitting firmly on a finger but able to move gently around.

“I had a few men ask me to design men’s jewellery,” Ana says. “But I’m not good when I think about men. That’s why I say that this is not unisex – not for man or for girl. But when I did chunkier pieces, in my head I felt they would work as gender-free.”

Another significant part of this designer’s story is that she is not linked to any particular boutique – and definitely not for sale on Place Vend?me.

She has been selected by thoughtful retailers from Bon Marché in Paris to the international Dover Street Market stores. But Net-a-Porter is enthusiastic about her work, setting a question that jewellery retailers, however mighty, are having to answer: Could high jewellery succeed online – even without personal attention and dinner from the Ritz?

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